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Thread: Concrete shuttering

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    Concrete shuttering

    I am thinking of shuttering some walls for a slatted shed and thought about doing the job myself has anybody made there own shuttering before or is it best to hire some, also any tips on doing shuttering and would I need to put reinforcing mesh and bars in the walls.

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    Re: Concrete shuttering

    will it be readymix or will you mix your own ? if it is readymix you would need enough shuttering to do a load at a time , if home mixing you would get away with a bay at a time .
    are you a ringlink member as they have some on their books that gets hired out and worth asking there
    I hired from here http://www.peri.com/en/solutions/pro...mwork/liwa.cfm and although it seemed expensive it still worked out cheaper than having someone else come in to do the job , it was very good to work with and very safe , a design plan so you don't get ties against steel etc and the clamps to hold it together are great to work with compared to bolts. Their accounts dept were not so good though
    whether you need reinforcing or not depends on the thickness of the concrete really ,at 6" it might be better with some, at 12 inch it wouldn`t need any

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    Re: Concrete shuttering

    It doent matter how thick the walls are. You need reinforcing!

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    Re: Concrete shuttering

    I'm assuming you're talking about shuttering the walls for the tank. If so I would say get an expert to do it. Concrete and the risk of failure is too great to go.messing about with not to mention risk of human injury/death.
    If it's just walls for animals get wall panels.

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    Re: Concrete shuttering

    Quote Originally Posted by DJM View Post
    I am thinking of shuttering some walls for a slatted shed and thought about doing the job myself has anybody made there own shuttering before or is it best to hire some, also any tips on doing shuttering and would I need to put reinforcing mesh and bars in the walls.
    iv done a reasonable amount of shuttering. reinforcing mesh is a necessity, it obviously has strength benefits. but if its not used, the concrete shrinks and can cause cracks in the wall. itll not happen to every one, but it will happen. i havent had a single wall crack when reinforcing mesh was used. shuttering is superior than panels. i have seen panels cracked, you'll never crack a shuttered wall. a shuttered wall also adds so much more strength to the building itself. if you imagine the stanctions of the shed, if the wall is half way up it. it only leaves half the length of the stanction to twist/flex. on the down side, there is a bit more work to doing them. the finish of the wall tends to turn out better on warm days. on cold days bits of the face of the wall can stick to the shutter a bit. parts will be fine and parts they'll be wee bits rough. you can get a release oil for shuttering, no experience of it, i used hydraulic oil
    thats my knowledge

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    Re: Concrete shuttering

    If it's just 4foot walls inbetween girders ply sheets and some 6x3s will do aslong as the span is not too big.
    Ond lle bu'r arad' ar y ffridd Yn rhywgo'r gwanwyn pr o'r pridd

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    Re: Concrete shuttering

    Quote Originally Posted by Mur Huwcun View Post
    If it's just 4foot walls inbetween girders ply sheets and some 6x3s will do aslong as the span is not too big.
    Yes, and a bit more too under some circumstances. If a block or brick wall with mortar would do the job, then the same thickness of cast concrete (assuming reasonable care) will also do the job.

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    Re: Concrete shuttering

    Assume you mean walls for the tank below the slats. Hire is OK but you are always under pressure of time. If its going to take long its as cheap to make your own.... ply & some strong box steel. Leave rods sticking out of the floor to tie the walls in. Always use reinforcing mesh. I was lucky with my soil & managed to single shutter, ie dig a nice clean face & pour concrete between the propped up shuttering & soil. Another tip is to leave rods sticking out of the top of the wall to tie into the floor to stop walls moving later.

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    Re: Concrete shuttering

    Quote Originally Posted by DJM View Post
    I am thinking of shuttering some walls for a slatted shed and thought about doing the job myself has anybody made there own shuttering before or is it best to hire some, also any tips on doing shuttering and would I need to put reinforcing mesh and bars in the walls.
    doing some now, 15 ft bays 8 ft high 10inch thick home made shutter 8 by 4 shutter grade ply x 4 nailed to 7 , 4 by 3's 15ft long + 2 lengths of 4 by 3 bolted vertically across the other4 by 3 to make it ridgid then you can lift it as one pannel you need 2 of these spray them with diesel to stop it stickin you need lengths of threaded rod, think we got 12mm and some plastic pipe to put the rod through between the shutters. we then have 4 lengths of 4 by 2 channel iron each side that we use to clamp the shutters . tip drill the holes in the channel and the pannel bigger than the threaded bar gives a bit of adjusrment and the plastic tube usually covers the slack to stop leakage we use a 3/4 inch holes 5 or 6 in each channel with corrisponding holes in shutter ie 20 to 24 per bay done up to 12inch thick and nothing moved yet - that could be famous last words !!!!!! we mix our own pan mixer & bob cat and add fibres hope that helps gs

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    Re: Concrete shuttering

    You can make your own timber shutters as said above, shuttering isn't overly complicated but if you dont know what your doing dont touch it. We are doing a bit at the moment and have got someone in to do it as a homer, he does all the setting up and pouring and we help do the donkey work. All mixed with pan mixer on site and costing alot less than a firm coming in.

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    Re: Concrete shuttering

    Quote Originally Posted by gunslinger View Post
    doing some now, 15 ft bays 8 ft high 10inch thick home made shutter 8 by 4 shutter grade ply x 4 nailed to 7 , 4 by 3's 15ft long + 2 lengths of 4 by 3 bolted vertically across the other4 by 3 to make it ridgid then you can lift it as one pannel you need 2 of these spray them with diesel to stop it stickin you need lengths of threaded rod, think we got 12mm and some plastic pipe to put the rod through between the shutters. we then have 4 lengths of 4 by 2 channel iron each side that we use to clamp the shutters . tip drill the holes in the channel and the pannel bigger than the threaded bar gives a bit of adjusrment and the plastic tube usually covers the slack to stop leakage we use a 3/4 inch holes 5 or 6 in each channel with corrisponding holes in shutter ie 20 to 24 per bay done up to 12inch thick and nothing moved yet - that could be famous last words !!!!!! we mix our own pan mixer & bob cat and add fibres hope that helps gs
    You get tie rod for shuttering (dywidag tie rod). its got course threads. can get the nuts with a built on washer that is about 4 inch diameter. tighten them with a hammer, quick to tighten and loosen. any cement that falls onto them never causes any trouble. i used steel tubing instead of plastic tubing, just dont leave them in to long are you'll not get them out. you can get tapered tubes for the job. i think the steel tubing gives you a more uniformed depth to your wall. i use steel shutters. the wall is left like it was plastered, very smooth

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    Re: Concrete shuttering

    we have walls 12inch thick with no reinforcing and store grain /rape 25feet deep no probs upto now!

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    Re: Concrete shuttering

    Quote Originally Posted by Quattro View Post
    we have walls 12inch thick with no reinforcing and store grain /rape 25feet deep no probs upto now!
    all our sheds and silage pit have poured walls, have a neighbour who's a builder and we use his shutters, and none of then have reinforcing in them. The oldest one is 16 years old, 12 inch thick, and is as good as new.

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    Re: Concrete shuttering

    Quote Originally Posted by loon View Post
    all our sheds and silage pit have poured walls, have a neighbour who's a builder and we use his shutters, and none of then have reinforcing in them. The oldest one is 16 years old, 12 inch thick, and is as good as new.
    Come the next few years wont be fit for purpose

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    Re: Concrete shuttering

    Quote Originally Posted by orcadian View Post
    Come the next few years wont be fit for purpose
    what is changing, r they going to be inspecting sheds now?

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    Re: Concrete shuttering

    Quote Originally Posted by orcadian View Post
    Come the next few years wont be fit for purpose
    i spose they will be going over them with a metal detector

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    Re: Concrete shuttering

    Quote Originally Posted by him View Post
    what is changing, r they going to be inspecting sheds now?
    He means in a few years the shed could
    be f##ked

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    Re: Concrete shuttering

    My father poured cattle shed walls pre 1978 when I left school and they honestly look like the day the shuttering came off if they are washed down.
    Agree that silage pit walls would have been a different matter though.
    Don't itch for something if you're not prepared to scratch for it.

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    Re: Concrete shuttering

    Any building used to store silage or slurry will have to be up to speck if built after a certain date cant remember which date it is, think the plan was put on hold for a couple of years to let folks get up to speed but you can bet your bottom dollar it will come up again.
    Don't think I would feel very comfortable packing silage at say 11/12 feet with no rebar in concrete

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    Re: Concrete shuttering

    We are thinking of rebuilding some silage clamp walls - Can anyone direct me to technical drawings showing footings & reinforcing for a 3.5m high wall?

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    Re: Concrete shuttering

    Quote Originally Posted by sprocket View Post
    He means in a few years the shed could
    be f##ked
    why ?

  22. #22
    Senior Member sprocket's Avatar
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    Re: Concrete shuttering

    Quote Originally Posted by loon View Post
    why ?
    Because the cracked walls will fall down. We are talking about slurry or silage retaining walls!

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    Re: Concrete shuttering

    Here is a shot of the rebar in the silo we built last year, there is double mesh because it is below ground level and there for needs strength for the out side pressure The wall is 3.3 mtr high
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Re: Concrete shuttering

    Another of the foundation rebar
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Re: Concrete shuttering

    Thank you Orcadian,
    Any chance you can provide some dimensions? If the wall was 3.3m high from floor to top what was the size (width and depth) of the foundation? From the pic it looks as though the wall was not in the middle of the foundation - is that correct? Was the wall 12" thick?

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    Re: Concrete shuttering

    The found was 2.2 mtr wide by 355mm deep and yes the wall is about 100-150mm from the outside edge of the found.
    The walls were 355mm wide because I wanted at least 50mm cover to the rebar the engineer had 35mm and in my mind that isn't near enough especially on a silage pit so we made the wall a bit wider to give us the desired cover.

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    Re: Concrete shuttering

    Thanks again Orcadian.
    As a matter of interest how much did it cost to build per m run of wall at 3.3m high?

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