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Thread: Adaptor to use Rotabroach bits in ordinary drill

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    Adaptor to use Rotabroach bits in ordinary drill

    I just got one of these:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/pillar-dri...3D371435429423

    Absolutely brilliant bit of kit. I've always struggled to drill holes bigger than 3/4" but with one of these its a doddle. I'm building a logsplitter and needed 30mm holes for the ram pins and lots of 22mm ones for the slide. A Mag Drill would be nice but this way a basic pillar drill is fine and you can do big holes in small bits of metal. I bought a set of three TCT tipped Genuine Rotabroach bits (22mm,30mm and a 36mm) for 12.50 delivered off ebay and they just shred metal.

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    Re: Adaptor to use Rotabroach bits in ordinary drill

    Is a 30mm hole big enough for the ram pin ? Depends on the ram of course but thought I would just ask. I want a splitter as well. Is there any chance of some piccies or have you patented it ?

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    Re: Adaptor to use Rotabroach bits in ordinary drill

    Quote Originally Posted by zaza View Post
    Is a 30mm hole big enough for the ram pin ? Depends on the ram of course but thought I would just ask. I want a splitter as well. Is there any chance of some piccies or have you patented it ?
    30mm should be more than enough for a splitter. I built mine using a shear grab ram and used the pivots and pins (25mm)









    Ond lle bu'r arad' ar y ffridd Yn rhywgo'r gwanwyn pr o'r pridd

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    Re: Adaptor to use Rotabroach bits in ordinary drill

    Quote Originally Posted by Mur Huwcun View Post
    30mm should be more than enough for a splitter. I built mine using a shear grab ram and used the pivots and pins (25mm)
    I was thinking about things that I have made and instead of broaching holes I have always gassed a hole on the plate and then welded a collar in that takes a much larger pin. But your piccies are very interesting MH. Thank you. There is one thing that I can't quite figure out though. I need a splitter for "normal" logs and it must also do rings of about 4ft diameter. Your type of design is ideal for the rings when it is lowered to the floor but is there a problem with raising it on the linkage to waist height for the normal size of log. i.e. (and this is the thing I can't get my head round) does the force of the ram try and push the whole thing off the 3 point linkage ?

    I don't want to be rude but is your cross shaft bent a little because of that ?

    In the 70s when Dutch elm was about we had 70 really big trees down and cut into rings. I had a great friend whose family owned Reynolds Tubing and the company were making rams for JCB at the time. He took a ram that was from a 5C and made a huge splitter like yours which sat on the floor and we pushed the rings into it with the 3C digger. The biggest problem was keeping the plate on the bottom of the thing. There was too much power there and nothing ever stopped it. But as anyone who has ever done it, splitting dead knotty big elm can be a bit of a pig.

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    Re: Adaptor to use Rotabroach bits in ordinary drill

    Quote Originally Posted by zaza View Post
    There is one thing that I can't quite figure out though. I need a splitter for "normal" logs and it must also do rings of about 4ft diameter. Your type of design is ideal for the rings when it is lowered to the floor but is there a problem with raising it on the linkage to waist height for the normal size of log. i.e. (and this is the thing I can't get my head round) does the force of the ram try and push the whole thing off the 3 point linkage
    How about some kind of portable stand to take the weight off the links, or a drop-down leg maybe

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    Re: Adaptor to use Rotabroach bits in ordinary drill

    Quote Originally Posted by MC130 View Post
    How about some kind of portable stand to take the weight off the links, or a drop-down leg maybe
    I had thought about another piece of RSJ fitted in-line with (and of the same dimensions as ) the piece that holds the ram but sat under the table with maybe a support from the RSJ out to the edge of the table to give the latter additional additional support. Not quite sure how the additional RSJ would be attached under the plate but it has to be detachable. Then a flat plate on the bottom where it touches the ground ?

    OR ! A good old "in-the-field-solution" Rest it on a couple of rings of timber ?

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    Re: Adaptor to use Rotabroach bits in ordinary drill

    Thinking about it a bit more, is there actually much pressure on the links other than the weight of the machine?

    Isn't the ram pushing the mast up, as much as it's pushing the knife down?

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    Re: Adaptor to use Rotabroach bits in ordinary drill

    Quote Originally Posted by Maico490 View Post
    I just got one of these:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/pillar-dri...3D371435429423

    Absolutely brilliant bit of kit. I've always struggled to drill holes bigger than 3/4" but with one of these its a doddle. I'm building a logsplitter and needed 30mm holes for the ram pins and lots of 22mm ones for the slide. A Mag Drill would be nice but this way a basic pillar drill is fine and you can do big holes in small bits of metal. I bought a set of three TCT tipped Genuine Rotabroach bits (22mm,30mm and a 36mm) for 12.50 delivered off ebay and they just shred metal.
    If you are considering a horizontal splitter, I strongly recommend reversing the positions of the splitter & anvil - i.e put the anvil on the end of the cylinder, and make the splitter out of steel in the shape of a cross. Ideally, the two horizontal "wings" should be set back (say) 30mm from the leading edge of the vertical splitting "fin", so as to ease the initial load on the system.

    The value of the splitter (or wedge) plates at the end of the machine is that the you can feed a second round before completely splitting the one before. The second simply pushes the previous one through the splitter.

    If you cared to fit a chute, each successive block would push the previous block up and eventually into a truck or trailer.

    A lifting arm allows big rounds to be lifted onto a horizontal machine.

    JV

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    Re: Adaptor to use Rotabroach bits in ordinary drill

    Quote Originally Posted by MC130 View Post
    Thinking about it a bit more, is there actually much pressure on the links other than the weight of the machine?

    Isn't the ram pushing the mast up, as much as it's pushing the knife down?
    Nah - it's pushing against the chequer plated foot.

    Could take it off the tractor and use it horizontally with longer hydraulic pipes.
    There are more engines killed through lack of water than through lack of oil

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    Re: Adaptor to use Rotabroach bits in ordinary drill

    Quote Originally Posted by Courier View Post
    Nah - it's pushing against the chequer plated foot.

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    Re: Adaptor to use Rotabroach bits in ordinary drill

    Morse tapers on most items are made of soft metal so that the tapers can bite to drive. I got one of those adaptors a few years back and turned a parallel on in place of the taper so I can use it in the pillar drill chuck without having to change the chuck out. Ok for up to maybe 50mm with care but beyond that the belt drive of the drill can't transmit enough torque. You also need to be really careful as the broaches are quite brittle and easily shattered. You need a big pillar drill to have a low enough speed not to cook the broach by overheating it. I have one of the more powerful mag drills capable of going to 100mm but you have to remember to drill the holes in the raw material before cutting to size otherwise there's nothing for the magnet to hold. Mind you it's always possible to tack it back on to something larger for the magnet and then separate and dress the item after the hole is done. If you need to make a hole bigger you can tack the blank back in and go for a bigger size but it's much easier not to screw up in the first place! The broaches don't particularly like going through seams or welding. They will do it with care but it drastically shortens their life. Broaches have made a big difference to what can be done in the workshop and well worth having. All hydraulic log splitter fabricators should be aware that the machines are subject to the requirements for two hand control in the machine safety directives. If you look at the professionally built ones you will see they comply. It's a simple thing to make them legal.

    http://www.malonefm.com/farm-machinery/hydraulic-log-splitter.html

    http://www.oxdaleproducts.co.uk/log-splitters/detail/tm400-tractor-mounted-log-splitter

    It's so easy to make them legal with a simple fulcrum or see saw mechanism on the handles that there really isn't any excuse for building a non compliant one.Only the cowboy built ones are single hand operation and asking for legal trouble in the event of an accident or an hse inspection.

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    Re: Adaptor to use Rotabroach bits in ordinary drill

    Quote Originally Posted by zaza View Post
    I was thinking about things that I have made and instead of broaching holes I have always gassed a hole on the plate and then welded a collar in that takes a much larger pin. But your piccies are very interesting MH. Thank you. There is one thing that I can't quite figure out though. I need a splitter for "normal" logs and it must also do rings of about 4ft diameter. Your type of design is ideal for the rings when it

    is lowered to the floor but is there a problem with raising it on the linkage to waist height for the normal size of log. i.e. (and this is the thing I can't get my head round) does the force of the ram try and push the whole thing off the 3 point linkage ?

    I don't want to be rude but is your cross shaft bent a little because of that ?

    .
    I use it in the raised position all the time. The cross shaft pipe gelive it or not bent on the first trip down the road!!!! I've fabricated an A frame to strengthen it and doubled or even trebled the bed size so that I can load a few rings on at a time or split a large one and keep all the pieces on the bed. I've got my geometry wrong and I have to extend top link to get the table level in the up position so need to move the top link brackets.

    It's now got a 50mm ball to move the trailer about aswell which is very handy.

    Ond lle bu'r arad' ar y ffridd Yn rhywgo'r gwanwyn pr o'r pridd

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    Re: Adaptor to use Rotabroach bits in ordinary drill

    Quote Originally Posted by MC130 View Post
    Thinking about it a bit more, is there actually much pressure on the links other than the weight of the machine?

    Isn't the ram pushing the mast up, as much as it's pushing the knife down?
    That's what I can't get my head round.

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    Re: Adaptor to use Rotabroach bits in ordinary drill

    Quote Originally Posted by Courier View Post
    Nah - it's pushing against the chequer plated foot.

    Could take it off the tractor and use it horizontally with longer hydraulic pipes.
    Ah, that makes sense. Thank you.

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    Re: Adaptor to use Rotabroach bits in ordinary drill

    Quote Originally Posted by Mur Huwcun View Post
    I use it in the raised position all the time. The cross shaft pipe gelive it or not bent on the first trip down the road!!!! I've fabricated an A frame to strengthen it and doubled or even trebled the bed size so that I can load a few rings on at a time or split a large one and keep all the pieces on the bed. I've got my geometry wrong and I have to extend top link to get the table level in the up position so need to move the top link brackets.

    It's now got a 50mm ball to move the trailer about aswell which is very handy.
    Thanks again MH. My rings are 4ft diameter and are all 20 inches-ish long green turkey oak so they will get pushed up onto the platform when it's on the ground with the digger. By the way, does anyone know if turkey oak burns O.K. ? This one has been down 12 months and is/was very tall and straight. Hell of a big tree in a plantation.

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    Re: Adaptor to use Rotabroach bits in ordinary drill

    Quote Originally Posted by zaza View Post
    Is a 30mm hole big enough for the ram pin ? Depends on the ram of course but thought I would just ask. I want a splitter as well. Is there any chance of some piccies or have you patented it ?
    Pretty much what Mur Huwcun has posted. Youtube is full of different versions if you want some ideas. As regards the 30mm pins I'm using a ram off our shear grab. It should only take a few minutes to swap over when needed. Everything else other than the spool valve will be from under the nettles!
    The horizontal v vertical is something I pondered for a while but getting the larger rings up without a lift is a complication and most of the videos I've seen involve steadying the log with one hand whilst it is split. Also most of them seem to involve picking up pieces from the floor to resplit. With a vertical one as long as you have a decent sized table this isn't a problem.
    I've also used your system of gassing holes then welding bushes in but finding the right size is often a problem.

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    Re: Adaptor to use Rotabroach bits in ordinary drill

    Maybe TP could cast his eye over this one. Myself I can't see any issues


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    Re: Adaptor to use Rotabroach bits in ordinary drill

    Hello Zaza,
    You asked if Turkey oak burns ok. At the end of the day it will burn in a log burner, but I'm afraid it's generally a poor firewood. It would be much better if you split it this year and burn it the following, if you have enough other timber in reserve? Also watch your back as it's very heavy, but you may have already found that out!

    Cheers,

    Ben

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    Re: Adaptor to use Rotabroach bits in ordinary drill

    Quote Originally Posted by BenB View Post
    Hello Zaza,
    You asked if Turkey oak burns ok. At the end of the day it will burn in a log burner, but I'm afraid it's generally a poor firewood. It would be much better if you split it this year and burn it the following, if you have enough other timber in reserve? Also watch your back as it's very heavy, but you may have already found that out!

    Cheers,

    Ben
    Thanks Ben, that was really helpfull. It won't be burnt this year in our log burner, we always work 2 years in advance. And you are totally correct about it being heavy ! I've got the truss to prove it. I have been told that it is a timber that really isn't any good for any furniture or anything like that so I'm going to log it. Shame really because it was a dead straight tree without branches until you get near what was the top. It was actually blown down with the wind but not rotten in any way. I am surprised at how little root system it had but it was in a plantation that was never thinned out. That's why it's gown like it has. Thanks again.

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