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Thread: Floor surface for new lambing shed

  1. #1
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    Floor surface for new lambing shed

    Looking for ideas for floor surface for my new 60x30 lambing shed. Budget won't allow for concrete so looking for next best thing.

    Thanks steve

  2. #2
    Senior Member skoda's Avatar
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    Re: Floor surface for new lambing shed

    What sort of surface do you have ,I assume its had the top soil dug up , is it dry with no rising water .
    Insanity is doing the same thing, over and over again, but expecting different results.

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    Re: Floor surface for new lambing shed

    Quote Originally Posted by skoda View Post
    What sort of surface do you have ,I assume its had the top soil dug up , is it dry with no rising water .
    It will have a hardcore base so looking for something to go on that.

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    Senior Member andybk's Avatar
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    Re: Floor surface for new lambing shed

    here we use hardcore base topped off with 4" of small cleanish recycled crushed stone @ 5 tonne (may have been ex tarmac last time ) , which binds a bit and will drain , every few years scrape the topping off (and fill the pot holes in track ) lime and replace to get rid of any bugs lurking in the floor .

  5. #5
    Senior Member skoda's Avatar
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    Re: Floor surface for new lambing shed

    The worse thing you can have is stones that stick up and get caught when mucking out .IMO clay sub soil left alone is the best surface ,that is if its dry all year round , and that type of soil is there .Andy`s suggestion of using road planning's is the best if you are putting hardcore down, try get some that isn't lumpy and broken up with a jack hammer . When I use planning`s on a round bale yard I reverse the tractor loader and use the heel of the bucket to level , far better than a shovel .
    Insanity is doing the same thing, over and over again, but expecting different results.

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    Re: Floor surface for new lambing shed

    Have you heard of soil stabilisation. Machine chews up whatever service you currently have, mixes that with cement powder, adds water, levels to slope how you want, rolls and leaves to go solid. Do not know where you are for contractor.

  7. #7
    Senior Member skoda's Avatar
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    Re: Floor surface for new lambing shed




    I would guess it might be a bit pricy Sounds like a good idea though .
    Insanity is doing the same thing, over and over again, but expecting different results.

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    Re: Floor surface for new lambing shed

    Haven't tried it yet myself, though intend to, but I was told chalk is next best thing to concrete. Location will dictate price and availability I guess.

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    Re: Floor surface for new lambing shed

    Ground Lime.
    Did our un concreted cattle sheds about three years ago.
    Spread with handler bucket......compacted with vibrating roller.
    Sets hard and leaves a nice smooth finish.
    Not sure how much effect the lime will have as a bug killer after a while, but there are benefits initially.
    Easily put down , no special skills or tools.
    Unlike hardcore it does not disappear gradually over the years.

  10. #10
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    Re: Floor surface for new lambing shed

    Quote Originally Posted by Gee View Post
    Ground Lime.
    Did our un concreted cattle sheds about three years ago.
    Spread with handler bucket......compacted with vibrating roller.
    Sets hard and leaves a nice smooth finish.
    Not sure how much effect the lime will have as a bug killer after a while, but there are benefits initially.
    Easily put down , no special skills or tools.
    Unlike hardcore it does not disappear gradually over the years.
    We have chalk quarries nearby, and so about 25 years ago put "as dug" chalk, which is the cheapest form, into the hole where our lambing yard floor ought to have been. It does have some big lumps in it, but nothing that driving round in a tractor won't crumble, and it then sets fairly hard, exactly like ground lime (which is ground chalk really anyway). The nicest thing about it is that it stays much drier than concrete would, with sheep weeing on it, and if the sub-base does move, any slight cracks will "heal". The slight snags are that rats can tunnel in it if they try hard enough, and if you wet scrub it with a power brush and disinfectant before lambing, it does take a little of the surface off (though I'm not sure that's a bad thing really).

    If holes do appear as a result of rats, or for other reasons, it can be seamlessly repaired, skimmed if you like, using lime mortar, which is applied wet and sets hard in a day or so. Hydraulic lime mortar is quicker and more reliable on its setting time, but is several times the price of ordinary building lime, and not stocked by many builders' merchants.

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