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Thread: ransome ts 80

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    ransome ts 80

    can anyone help me in setting up a ransome ts 80 single furrow reversible on a massey 135, been looking for a manual and cant find any, any tips on how to get the best from this appreciated thanks

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    Re: ransome ts 80

    Not used a TS80 but used a TS81, 82, & 83 so should be similar. The 81 & 82 were both 2 furrow reversibles and the 83 & 84 (tractor killer) were 3 furrow reversibles.
    Post a piccy showing the headstock or a photo. out of the manual if you have one and I'll help if I can.

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    Re: ransome ts 80


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    Re: ransome ts 80

    there is a linkage on the headstock needs repaired and the disc skimmers are rotten, the trip mechanism needs freed off also

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    Re: ransome ts 80

    Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but that headstock is in a bad way. Both linkage pins appear to have been welded on to the cross shaft at some time and and it looks as if they are both bent backwards. We don't know what you are hoping to achieve with this plough but if you are thinking of match ploughing I wouldn't bother. The manner in which those linkage pins were originally fastened on to the cross shaft was always questionable anyway - just one bolt and the cross shaft moves very suddenly on turnover so they could work loose.

    Where the top link attaches to the plough has had a smack at some time and would need to be opened out. You say that the "disc skimmers are rotten" Discs & skims are two separate items and steel doesn't rot, it rusts. They are the SN skim and you will need 2 new skim mouldboards and 2 new skim shares. The plough looks as if it's got SCN main mouldboards and the throat part of them have been allowed to wear. They will do a bit more yet but it all depends on how much wear has taken place at the other end, by the tails.

    The turnover linkage looks to be in a bad way also. This could be tempermental at the best of times and certainly needs a lot of work on your plough. Oh, and by the way, you need 2 new shares.

    You haven't told us what you intend to do with this plough and so advice from here is conjectural. If you have just bought it then I would take it back to the seller and say thanks but no thanks. If, as can be seen, it has been lying down sideways then I would go and put it back where you found it. On the other hand, positioned correctly it would fill a gap in a hedge somewhere.

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    Re: ransome ts 80

    ok not going to be doing any ploughing matches, only a crofter with a few acres so the plough wont be doing much every year, have grassland that hasnt been turned over for a long time so i thought a single furrow would be good for this, im quite willing to spend some time fixing it up as i didnt pay much for it, is it worth trying to heat the linkage pins up to straighten them out, there is a bit of wear to the rear of the mouldbards but no holes

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    Re: ransome ts 80

    O.K. Now that you have told us that it puts a different complexion on the matter. Firstly, although I have no knowledge of the type of soil that you have, there is a fair chance that an SCN body is unsuitable. SCN is a digger body and you may have rock, sandstone, etc. at plough depth or less under you ground in which case you will hit problems. We just don't know what soil type that you have on your croft. Also, have a look at this current plough for sale on eBay :
    ts80d.jpg

    Notice how the linkage pins are turned inwards. That's because the plough has been attached to a tractor with Category 1 linkage arms. It depends on how old your 135 is but you may only have the option of Cat 1 in which case you would need to have the pins attached as they are in the image.

    We understand you may not have the option of acquiring something more suitable, depending on your location. Do you not have others in your area who could do the work for you ?

    EDIT. Notice how the pin holders are attached to the cross shaft. Just a single bolt and the pin holder has a square hole that fits onto the end of the cross shaft which is also square. You have probably never seen the plough trip over but you actually "load" the plough when it is lowered to the ground and then the next time it is lifted on the linkage, being "loaded" when the trip handle is pulled the weight of the plough turns it over. Difficult to explain but the plough does go over with a bit of a thump (maybe not so much with a single furrow plough) and operators must keep an eye on the pin holder and bolt holding it on to the shaft.
    Last edited by zaza; 17-12-18 at 07:32 AM.

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    Re: ransome ts 80

    my soil is very sandy in places and very black soil on top of clay in others, may be a few stones about but most of the ground was cultivated but it was a long time ago, my massey 135 has the long arms with interchangable ball ends, i have always had cat 1 balls on it though, i also have an old ferguson 2 furrow and a massey 41 two furrow these are far from perfect but will turn over a furrow, the massey 41 has no disc coulters so it may be unsuitable for grassland? yes it is possible to get someone in to do the job but i would prefer to do it myself as i have the tractors, this is just a hobby for me,

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    Re: ransome ts 80

    Do not worry about not having disc coulters for grassland. I never had any discs on my TS81, TS82, DB 3 furrow reversible, Fergy Y base, Salopian Huard, or any other plough I have ploughed with. Just got one each side now on the rear furrows of the Dowdeswell. It helps to keep a clean furrow.

    It helps if you can get the grass as short as you can or spray it off with glyphosate first.

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    Re: ransome ts 80

    ok thanks for your help going to get the boards cleaned up and repair the turnover linkage and then try it out on my international tractor next week, if it works reasonably well i will get some new points on it

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    Re: ransome ts 80

    have done a few jobs to this plough, the linkage for the turnover mechanism was broken, i fixed this , and have been trying to turn the plough over but it only goes halfway and bounces back, there is a round bar in the linkage that is bending when i try to turn the plough, does anyone know what could be causing this, i have tried dropping the plough and pulling forward to engage the mechanism but made no difference

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    Re: ransome ts 80

    the crossshaft on the plough was seized got this freed of, the plough will still not turn over, there is a rod in the turnover linkage that is bending, there is also a ratchet pawl type thing that was also seized got this moving freely but still no joy can anyone explain how this is meant to work

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    Re: ransome ts 80

    Quote Originally Posted by aleary View Post
    the crossshaft on the plough was seized got this freed of, the plough will still not turn over, there is a rod in the turnover linkage that is bending, there is also a ratchet pawl type thing that was also seized got this moving freely but still no joy can anyone explain how this is meant to work
    I'll have a go, they were about when I was a nipper, never took much notice of the workings and they had later all hyd turnover ploughs when I started here.



    IIRC the principle was that in work the lower link arms pull the cranked cross shaft to pull the plough.

    The trip latch holds the plough level. When you lift the plough up the weight of the plough is used to turn over the plough by pulling the turnover trip releasing the catch.

    When you lifted the plough up the weight of it pulls on the top link about which it all "piviots" ie the weight of the plough where it attaches to the lower link arms now "pushes forwards" towards the tractor (the opposite way to when ploughing was pulling them) as the latch is holding the cross shaft, when tripped the ploughs weight will make the now released cross shaft turn pullling on a sort of adjustable link rod attached to the pivioting arm thats bolted between the headstock plates, on the other end of this should be a sort of connecting rod attached to the plough frame, so that as the trip catch lets the frame go the weight and turnover linkage pulls the plough over all powered by the weight of the plough pushing on the cross shaft, ideally the plough needs to be hitched so that it clears the ground and the turnover mechanism/rods need to be adjusted so that they only take weight/pressure when the trip is pulled.

    I think something may be set wrong if you are seeing something bending there going by your original picture, There must be a stop of some sorts on the cross shaft to take the pull when ploughing- I wouldn't of thought they would of used the turnover linkage to take that stress?

    It not too clear on your picture although it looked like the turnover linkage was incomplete?

    I vaguely remember that when they were tripped as they went round they dipped slightly where the cross shaft was moving to turn it over, not much but just a little stoop.

    Hope that helps. Some of the old hand ploughers may explain it better !
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    Re: ransome ts 80

    The plough cross shaft is free to move approximately 1/4 of a turn and when the plough is lowered into work the linkage arms pull the pins on the end of the cross shaft closer to the tractor because the end of the cross shaft is cranked by virtue of the two ends that have the cat 1/2 pins on them. This in turn "loads" the turnover mechanism by pushing the linkage inside the headstock frame upwards. Because there is a fulchrum point in the linkage this force is then reversed to a downward movement on the remainder of the linkage and pushes the bar XX as shown in my diagrams downwards.

    This then allows the collar to which the bar XX is attached to to go past a type of cam mechanism on the pinion shaft. Once it goes past this point it engages with the mechanism and "locks" into place.

    When the plough is lifted on the linkage then because the cross shaft is pointing in a forward direction, having been pulled like that and locked into position, the weight of the plough wants to pull the complete headstock forward, thus leaving the cranks on the end of the cross shaft not in tension. But this is prevented by the trip mechanism by virtue of the fact that the pin is engaged in the jaws of the trip. But when the trip lever is pulled the pin is pulled from the jaws and the plough is free to rotate.

    n.b. PLEASE READ THE YELLOW TYPE FIRST.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Re: ransome ts 80

    Quote Originally Posted by zaza View Post
    The plough cross shaft is free to move approximately 1/4 of a turn and when the plough is lowered into work the linkage arms pull the pins on the end of the cross shaft closer to the tractor because the end of the cross shaft is cranked by virtue of the two ends that have the cat 1/2 pins on them. This in turn "loads" the turnover mechanism by pushing the linkage inside the headstock frame upwards. Because there is a fulchrum point in the linkage this force is then reversed to a downward movement on the remainder of the linkage and pushes the bar XX as shown in my diagrams downwards.

    This then allows the collar to which the bar XX is attached to to go past a type of cam mechanism on the pinion shaft. Once it goes past this point it engages with the mechanism and "locks" into place.

    When the plough is lifted on the linkage then because the cross shaft is pointing in a forward direction, having been pulled like that and locked into position, the weight of the plough wants to pull the complete headstock forward, thus leaving the cranks on the end of the cross shaft not in tension. But this is prevented by the trip mechanism by virtue of the fact that the pin is engaged in the jaws of the trip. But when the trip lever is pulled the pin is pulled from the jaws and the plough is free to rotate.

    n.b. PLEASE READ THE YELLOW TYPE FIRST.
    ok thanks that explains it very well, the cam mechanism was seized i have stripped that and cleaned it all up will try it again on saturday, this is the first reversible ploughi have had and it has been a nightmare! the tip of the plough point sits in the centre line of the tractor, am i correct in thinking it should be 12" away from the inside of the back tyre?

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    Re: ransome ts 80

    Quote Originally Posted by aleary View Post
    ok thanks that explains it very well, the cam mechanism was seized i have stripped that and cleaned it all up will try it again on saturday, this is the first reversible ploughi have had and it has been a nightmare! the tip of the plough point sits in the centre line of the tractor, am i correct in thinking it should be 12" away from the inside of the back tyre?
    No, when you lift the plough it will centralise (always assuming of course that you don't have any stabiliser bars fitted to your tractor and that the check chains are allowing the plough to run where it should). But when you lower it into the ground and start to plough with it then it will pull towards the tractor wheel/last furrow. This is when you make adjustments on the width by using the two adjusting bolts on the centre pivot pin.

    Let me try to make that clearer. The front furrow width is adjusted, once in work, by screwing in(or out) the long bolt-like things that will move the plough about the pivot pin. One of the bolt-like things is shown in my first photo. in post #14 just above the word "pulled" in yellow. You can actually just also see the corresponding one on the other side of the plough. When you adjust one of these bolts outwards then you MUST adjust the other one inwards so that the plough doesn't "waggle" about around the pivot pin which is again shown in my first photo. in #14 just above the letters XX

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    Re: ransome ts 80

    Quote Originally Posted by zaza View Post
    No, when you lift the plough it will centralise (always assuming of course that you don't have any stabiliser bars fitted to your tractor and that the check chains are allowing the plough to run where it should). But when you lower it into the ground and start to plough with it then it will pull towards the tractor wheel/last furrow. This is when you make adjustments on the width by using the two adjusting bolts on the centre pivot pin.

    Let me try to make that clearer. The front furrow width is adjusted, once in work, by screwing in(or out) the long bolt-like things that will move the plough about the pivot pin. One of the bolt-like things is shown in my first photo. in post #14 just above the word "pulled" in yellow. You can actually just also see the corresponding one on the other side of the plough. When you adjust one of these bolts outwards then you MUST adjust the other one inwards so that the plough doesn't "waggle" about around the pivot pin which is again shown in my first photo. in #14 just above the letters XX
    ok dont have stabiliser bars fitted, only other problem i am having now is the tractor wont lift the plough high enough for it to trip over without hitting the ground, it is an international 584, i have never had a problem with it not lifting implements high enough, i cannot see any way of getting the lift arms to go higher, there is only the one hole on the link arms for the drop arms to locate, the top link looks like it is screwed in pretty far too.

    i have found a video on youtube showing the operation of the trip mechanism for one of these ploughs, this one works perfect, the connecting rods in the trip linkage look different though

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    Re: ransome ts 80

    Your IH 584 should pick the plough up high enough to enable turnover, even a MF 135 will do that. Make sure that your lift rods are short enough to give you the required lift. To do that you have to release the LH (n/s) lift rod from the linkage arm and screw it in to make it shorter and the right hand lift rod can be shortened by winding the handle at the top of the lift rod.

    Post the link to the YouTube video and let us have a look.

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    Re: ransome ts 80

    Quote Originally Posted by zaza View Post
    Your IH 584 should pick the plough up high enough to enable turnover, even a MF 135 will do that. Make sure that your lift rods are short enough to give you the required lift. To do that you have to release the LH (n/s) lift rod from the linkage arm and screw it in to make it shorter and the right hand lift rod can be shortened by winding the handle at the top of the lift rod.

    Post the link to the YouTube video and let us have a look.
    https://youtu.be/vwfU7-7ot6U
    https://youtu.be/2CNIHuBOPB4

    ok will be next week before i get to look at the tractor, didnt know the n/s arm can be adjusted in the book it shows that the arms can be set to float or rigid, i have never adjusted this, there are two holes in the arms for the different settings,the plough in the first video is very similar to mine but the turnover mechanism linkages look to be different

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    Re: ransome ts 80

    The plough in the first video has a turnover mechanism that I have never seen on a manual turnover Ransome plough. There is no collar that moves around the pinion shaft and I suspect that there is a lock arrangement in the A frame out of view. Probably a design prior to going to hydraulic turnover.

    The plough in the 2nd video is the same as yours. It has (or should have) the same turnover as yours and you can clearly see the cross shaft revolving slightly when it is lowered to the ground and that "loads" the trip mechanism as I mentioned.

    The LH lift rod on your MF 135 should be in two parts, one threaded into the other. Dis-connect the lift rod at the bottom where it connects with the linkage arm and turn it whichever way shortens it. Remember that you have to do the same with the RH side so that both linkage arms are the same length but that can be done with the adjusting handle.

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    Re: ransome ts 80

    Quote Originally Posted by zaza View Post
    The plough in the first video has a turnover mechanism that I have never seen on a manual turnover Ransome plough. There is no collar that moves around the pinion shaft and I suspect that there is a lock arrangement in the A frame out of view. Probably a design prior to going to hydraulic turnover.

    The plough in the 2nd video is the same as yours. It has (or should have) the same turnover as yours and you can clearly see the cross shaft revolving slightly when it is lowered to the ground and that "loads" the trip mechanism as I mentioned.

    The LH lift rod on your MF 135 should be in two parts, one threaded into the other. Dis-connect the lift rod at the bottom where it connects with the linkage arm and turn it whichever way shortens it. Remember that you have to do the same with the RH side so that both linkage arms are the same length but that can be done with the adjusting handle.

    Zaza, Plough in the 1st video is how the ransomes 3f ploughs where I grew up were, and also there was still one here at work when I started in 81 but it went soon afterwards, that too had the same two piece turnbuckle with the oval slotted loop at one end, plus there was that big clevis pin at the front that hooked up to do the turning over. If you watch the plough being tripped repeatedly you can notice the catch hooking up when it lowered, then when picked up you can see the cross shaft move slightly as it is tripped, I recall that it was best practice to always trip the plough straight out of work before turning on the headland or when picking it up/travelling as the weight would hang on the turnbuckle which stretched or broke- saw a few of them laid about the tractor shed as a teenager.

    The Zaza version turnover is the only one of that type I've seen so far!

    Worst memory of of these ploughs was riding in the lambourne cab of my brothers ford 4000 when he was ploughing some old grass ley and suddenly the ground just erupted as he went through the biggest rats network of tunnels & nests you could imagine, they were just pouring out of the furrows as they folded over Glad I was up in the cab off the ground!
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    Re: ransome ts 80

    Quote Originally Posted by Footsfitter View Post
    Zaza, Plough in the 1st video is how the ransomes 3f ploughs where I grew up were, etc.
    I didn't do a lot with a TS83 (3 furrow reversible) and so maybe it was like that. I used a TS81 and 2 x TS82 ploughs extensively, 2 on YL bodies, one on SCNs, and the ones that I had used the collar arrangement. What you refer to as the 3 furrow version certainly looks a lot tidier, hence my supposition that it superseeded the ones that I knew. In any event, the OP has the more familiar mechanism as shown in the 2nd video. I never used a TS84 (tractor killer 3f as opposed to the TS83) and that was a manual turnover in the early days and that would have taken a bit of pulling over !

    At the risk of repeating myself, have a look in that 2nd video and watch how the operator trips the plough. His rear wheel is nearly in the furrow and that is always a bit silly. The plough swings "under" as opposed to over and it could have easily caught the ground. That's also why you don't reverse when tripping the plough !

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    Re: ransome ts 80

    i managed to have a look at the plough today, i made a new linkage for the turnover, i tried it with a light length of round bar but it broke straight away so i used a link of a chain welded onto a threaded rod, this screws into the clevis, the pawl is engaging perfect every time but the plough is still not turning over properly it is almost going all the way over its missing the catch by a fraction, i have been adjusting the threaded rod in the clevis and i got the plough to turn all the way over once, as the plough was lying so long will the bearing on the large centre shaft be needing oil, there is no grease nipple for this, this is all i can think of that could be stopping it going all the way over

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    Re: ransome ts 80

    Twp possible reasons for this that come to mind immediately. Does the plough "not quite make it over on both sides" ? i.e. does it tend to catch one way but not the other, if so then it could be a question of balance. Have you got discs/skims/ or any other weight on one side and not the other ? When you are ploughing for real if you pick the plough up and there is soil sticking to the shares/bodies/etc on the side that you've just picked out of the ground but not on the side that has been up in the air for your last run then invariably it won't go fully over because it's unbalanced.

    But I think it is more likely to be those brackets that hold the pins that go into your linkage arms. If they are loose/welded up in the wrong place/etc. then it is highly likely that the plough isn't "loading" itself sufficiently. The turnover linkage has to be under quite a lot of tension to give the plough sufficient "umph" to get it all the way over so that it catches on the other side.

    You say there is no grease nipple for the pinion shaft. I can't remember if there were or not but remember that there is probably a bearing at the rear as well as the front and as long as there is a bit of grease in there then that will be O.K. But does the pinion shaft need tightening up a bit ? I think there is a castellated nut on the threaded part at the front and that might just want nipping up because if there is a lot of play in there that will in turn hinder the turnover operation. But don't overtighten it.

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    Re: ransome ts 80

    managed to turn some soil over with the plough and got it turning over better to.
    my lift arms wont go high enough, took the fixed lift arm apart and the adjusting screw has its thread stripped so will need to fix this,i couldnt get the lift arms at the same height either. i shortened the toplink to componsate for this and it gave me enough height but the plough doesnt quite sit right now, when ploughing the plough doesnt seem to be close enough to the furrow that has just been turned its leaving a strip unploughed and it seemed to have a tendancy to wander away from the centre of the tractor, will the link arms not been the same length cause this?

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    Re: ransome ts 80


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    Re: ransome ts 80

    You can tell that the top link is too short and it means that the plough isn't level fore/aft. I would adjust the top link so that the plough is level in work and then let the front wheels into a furrow with the rear wheels up on the grassland before tripping it and that should mean that the plough will seem to be higher off the ground because the front of the tractor is lower than the back and may allow you to trip it.

    You are ploughing far too wide with the front furrow. Adjust it as I explained in the last paragraph in my post #16.

    Make sure that your discs are free to run "in-line" If your discs are slightly off-set and the stops are not allowing them to run freely in-line that can also affect the true nature of whether the plough is ploughing wide or narrow. That looks quite decent dirt you are ploughing there, that body/skim combination will make a decent job when you get it set up. One other thing, because the plough bodies & skims are rusty the soil won't glide over them as nice as it will when they are shiny.

    One more thing. In your last photo. I can see that your discs are set far too deep. Pick them both up a bit. Please understand that the more resistance the plough has got to overcome the wider it will plough. The width of the front furrow is all about the angle of the soil engaging parts in relationship to the last furrow, it makes a difference even depending on the type of soil that you are ploughing. Lighter soil has less resistance than heavier soil does and that's why you have to adjust those long adjusting studs depending on soil type.

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    Re: ransome ts 80

    ok so when i have the furrow width adjusted correctly i should have ploughed a furrow approx 12" wide?
    got a few jobs to do before i can try it out again, the link arm will need repaired, i was thinking of cutting the section with the worn out threads and welding on a length of 7/8 unc rod instead of buying a new link arm
    i was planning on buffing up the boards with a flap disc on a grinder is this advisable?
    yes the soil i am practising on is good as i have had spuds planted here, once i get it setup i intend to plough approx and acre of ground that has not been turned over for a long time, i will be planting swedes for feeding to sheep

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    Re: ransome ts 80

    It will be up to you how wide your ploughed furrow is going to be because it is a single furrow plough. On mult-furrow ploughs that distance is determined for you because of the distance between the 1st & 2nd furrow, 2nd & 3rd, 3rd & 4th, etc. etc. That distance is usually adjustable on Ransome ploughs but it needn't concern you because yours is a single furrow plough.

    All you have to do is match your first furrow to all previously ploughed furrows. As I have said before, your front furrow width is adjusted by moving those 2 long screws in unison, i.e. one in and one out. Look at it this way. Suppose you are ploughing with the left furrow in the ground, as per your photos, and you screw the long threaded screw, the one nearest the previous furrow wall, right out and then screw one on the opposite side right in. That would make your plough point towards your o/s wheel. If you put the plough to work like this the soil would create such a force on the skim, throat, mouldboard etc. that the plough would try and plough as wide as the check chains would allow.

    It's all about the amount of force that the soil exerts on any soil wearing part. As I said earlier, your plough looks to have SCN bodies (mouldboards) fitted and the ideal width to plough with those is about 14". 16" is O.K. but more than that and you will tend to be, depending on how your soil reacts, leaving a little bit of land not turned over properly. That is what is happening in the photo. in your post #25. Incidentally, if you scratch around on the reverse of the mouldboard you should be able to see SCN stamped somewhere.

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    Re: ransome ts 80

    Just realised that you asked about using a flap disc on a grinder. I've never used one of those but it's worth a try. I would prefer using a wire brush on a grinder but I've just burnt out a 4" grinder when using one ! I would certainly try to get the worst of the rust off first. Ideally you want about 4-5 acres of dry-ish ground (with a single furrow plough) to plough and that will get most of the rust off, especially if there is a bit of gravel in it. Why not plough it all with the same side if you're only going to plough an acre and concentrate on getting that board clean ?

    The real problem arises if the boards have been rusty for too long and they have pitted.

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