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Thread: MF168 head gasket

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    MF168 head gasket

    Venerable MF168 (hours unknown, but probably considerable) blew some drops of water from the exhaust when I started it a week ago.

    Today, maybe half an egg cup was blown out & it was reluctant to turn over. I persisted and eventually it started & idled ok.

    There seems to be no milkiness to the oil, and no sheen on the radiator water. Am I correct to assume the head gasket is leaking from a water gallery into a cylinder, and that I should deal with it before the oil is contaminated & the radiator gets a film of sludge?

    JV
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    Re: MF168 head gasket

    Quote Originally Posted by john maddock View Post
    Venerable MF168 (hours unknown, but probably considerable) blew some drops of water from the exhaust when I started it a week ago.

    Today, maybe half an egg cup was blown out & it was reluctant to turn over. I persisted and eventually it started & idled ok.

    There seems to be no milkiness to the oil, and no sheen on the radiator water. Am I correct to assume the head gasket is leaking from a water gallery into a cylinder, and that I should deal with it before the oil is contaminated & the radiator gets a film of sludge?

    JV
    John, personally I would be more concerned with water getting into the oil - oil is the lifeblood of your bottom end. Another consideration is how much it is used, how critical it is to your operation, what times of the year it is used most and the value of the machine (it is not apt to be worth any amount more fixed vs as-is) - if you can schedule the repair during the machine's "slack time", it would be ready to go when needed.

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    Re: MF168 head gasket

    Quote Originally Posted by john maddock View Post
    Venerable MF168 (hours unknown, but probably considerable) blew some drops of water from the exhaust when I started it a week ago.

    Today, maybe half an egg cup was blown out & it was reluctant to turn over. I persisted and eventually it started & idled ok.

    There seems to be no milkiness to the oil, and no sheen on the radiator water. Am I correct to assume the head gasket is leaking from a water gallery into a cylinder, and that I should deal with it before the oil is contaminated & the radiator gets a film of sludge?

    JV
    Ah! thought something was up. Glad its something mechanical thats ill

    Agrimax will be the man who probably knows your 168 engine inside out and could confirm if it has liners and if they are wet or dry? If there are liners and they are wet ones that too could be a source of water getting in the cylinder and hydraulicking besides the old favourite of hte head gasket. If your very lucky it could just be a very old and fragile head gasket.

    To see if theres water getting into the sump, try parking it so the drain bung/plug is the lowest point and allow to sit for some time, then with a pair of gloves on, crack the sump plug and quickly just let a spurt of oil out into a container- water if present being heavier than the oil will/should come out first.
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    Re: MF168 head gasket

    Quote Originally Posted by Footsfitter View Post
    Ah! thought something was up. Glad its something mechanical thats ill

    Agrimax will be the man who probably knows your 168 engine inside out and could confirm if it has liners and if they are wet or dry? If there are liners and they are wet ones that too could be a source of water getting in the cylinder and hydraulicking besides the old favourite of hte head gasket. If your very lucky it could just be a very old and fragile head gasket.

    To see if theres water getting into the sump, try parking it so the drain bung/plug is the lowest point and allow to sit for some time, then with a pair of gloves on, crack the sump plug and quickly just let a spurt of oil out into a container- water if present being heavier than the oil will/should come out first.
    Good suggestion Ff, but the nose is slightly downhill on a dirt floor, and I think it would be a good idea to not start the engine to jack it up with the loader. I've made a start by draining the fuel & a gasket is on order.

    Being Perkins, I think the liners will be dry, so I'm comforting myself by thinking it will be a simple failed head gasket.

    When Agrimax has a look in, he might like to comment on the problem I intended tackling very soon (until the leak turned up!).

    For a few months, the MultiPower linkage has been erratic i.e I needed to adjust it, both up and down, to achieve a reliable change. The MP clutch was rebuilt maybe 8 years ago - but less than 1000 hrs - so I assume it is ok. The fact that the linkage needed to be adjusted in both directions suggests that the spool valve in the bell housing is the problem. Are there O ring(s) which might have failed and can be replaced, or is it case of replace the complete unit? The local dealers have supplied a diagram which shows two versions, but does not list serial numbers for a change, and the seals shown appear to be for external connections.

    JV
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    Re: MF168 head gasket

    Quote Originally Posted by Ironhead View Post
    John, personally I would be more concerned with water getting into the oil - oil is the lifeblood of your bottom end. Another consideration is how much it is used, how critical it is to your operation, what times of the year it is used most and the value of the machine (it is not apt to be worth any amount more fixed vs as-is) - if you can schedule the repair during the machine's "slack time", it would be ready to go when needed.
    I agree about water in the oil. The tractor is sort of critical, coz it's the only way I can stack round bales in the barn. They'll be ok out for a while coz we are in a green drought, so I'd like it working soon.
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    Re: MF168 head gasket

    Hi John. You're right about the liners. They're just dry sleeves. I'd think it's just a head gasket is required. A little water has likely gotten into a cylinder making it hard to turn over.... It only takes a tiny amount for it to hydraulic..... but you've maybe got it early enough before the water has made its way past the rings and into the oil.
    Can't help you with the MP though as I've little experience with it. Only cleaned the suction filter on a 65 and that was a HYD lid off job. MP was only working sometimes and the filter wasn't bad. Reckoned it needed a pump but the owner didn't want to spend........!

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    Re: MF168 head gasket

    Quote Originally Posted by agrimax View Post
    Hi John. You're right about the liners. They're just dry sleeves. I'd think it's just a head gasket is required. A little water has likely gotten into a cylinder making it hard to turn over.... It only takes a tiny amount for it to hydraulic..... but you've maybe got it early enough before the water has made its way past the rings and into the oil.
    Can't help you with the MP though as I've little experience with it. Only cleaned the suction filter on a 65 and that was a HYD lid off job. MP was only working sometimes and the filter wasn't bad. Reckoned it needed a pump but the owner didn't want to spend........!
    Thanks for your thoughts Agrimax.

    Re the MP problem, on reflection it could just be sloppy linkages, but it's hard to get to the external parts without removing the steering box, so when the time comes (which might be for a while) I'll check the simple stuff first.

    Re the water in the exhaust, here's the update. I'd appreciate any comments.

    Head came off without too much trouble. All but 6 of the 20 bolts were
    rusty, but only one was jammed to any extent. Liberal amounts of
    Ballistol & careful tooing and froing got it clear of the block & it came
    away with the head. One bolt had a huge amount of oil around it; that,
    plus the rust, suggests to me that the head gasket had not been tightened correctly & was leaking in various
    places.

    One of the nuts on the rocker gear was badly rounded off (barely got it
    off) so someone had been there before me. In addition, there were several
    small remains of a previous gasket on both the head and the block, so I'm
    thinking the previous miscreant did a bad job.

    Cleaning the head revealed significant pitting of the surface above #3,
    especially between the valves, so I reckon there has been a water leak in
    that area for a long time; just enough to leave some moisture which was
    probably sucked into the cylinder as the engine cooled, but not enough to be evident - until now .

    One of my friends has suggested a copper spray on the surface of the head, just in case the gasket doesn't seal in the small area of pitting outside the cylinder

    I'll try to buy all new bolts on Mon., but have decided against getting
    the head planed: time of year, plus evidence of dodgy gasket installation.

    I'll have to follow Ff's point about water settling in the sump, coz if there is any there, it must be removed by jacking up the front end (drain is at the rear) or it will contaminate the new oil.


    JV
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    Re: MF168 head gasket

    Yes,it does sound like a poor repair from before. As long as every thing is well cleaned up......I sometimes use a belt sander and fine emery or a DA sander and go lightly.Leaves a good job.Probably wouldn't hurt to use copper spray although I've never done it......

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    Re: MF168 head gasket

    Quote Originally Posted by agrimax View Post
    Yes,it does sound like a poor repair from before. As long as every thing is well cleaned up......I sometimes use a belt sander and fine emery or a DA sander and go lightly.Leaves a good job.Probably wouldn't hurt to use copper spray although I've never done it......
    Thanks agrimax. I like the idea of the belt sander. If the new bolts are delayed I might give that a go.

    JV
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    Re: MF168 head gasket

    Quote Originally Posted by john maddock View Post
    Thanks agrimax. I like the idea of the belt sander. If the new bolts are delayed I might give that a go.

    JV

    These are supposed to be "paint removing disks"





    They are 4-1/2" discs made of a woven fibre coated with carborundum grit, designed as the tin says for paint removal in body-shops, they are not very strong and need a gentle touch but they will take off gaskets, rust and crud with incredible ease. A part worn one is best for delicate stuff and you can with great care just get down to the base metal leaving a dull finish and then complete with traditional fine emery cloth or wet & Dry paper. Obviously for alloy and other soft metals extreme care is needed but these can be very useful to get the bulk of cleaning done and can be no worse than sharp scrapers in the wrong mitts!

    Re the oil, If you crack the drain bung off and using a glove to drop a bit of oil and put the bung back in reveals no water, then I would leave it in there until the rebuild is done and once up and running I'd then change the oil and filter as it will of flushed out any debris from the repair work. Also another option could be to just drain it, leave the filter, refill with 50/50 engine oil and diesel, run for 5-10 min at 1/3revs max, park to get the plug at the lowest point, drain and refill with new oil and a filter change.
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    Re: MF168 head gasket

    Update. (What a curious American term!).

    Having decided to replace the bolts, coz those on the injector side were pitted & rusty, I phoned the local MF dealer (now owned by Canadian multinational Nutrien, for Ironhead's interest), to be told a set would cost $808, with several weeks delay for them to come from overseas. Pass, thanks.

    Next stop, the WWW; phoned one of the NSW sellers, to be told that they don't hold stock; they take the bolts to the local Cat dealer who matches them.

    Phoned the local Cat dealer, to be told that caper should work, so I drove the 30 minutes to collect a set. Sorry, says the man, we're out of stock, but if we had them, the cost would be $288.

    Back to the WWW, and settled on a phone call to Parts4engines.com, in Sheffield, UK. on 23 December. The fellow I conversed with had never heard of Tasmania, and I had to spell it, followed by Australia, before he twigged. Yes, we have the bolts, $155 including DHL freight.

    I had decided against ordering via their website, coz I did not want to put my credit card details on an unknown site, so I placed the order verbally. I'm pretty sure he simply completed the company's website form as I gave the info; I do not know if he also entered my card numbers similarly, but probably not coz I phoned again on 7 January to ask why their site said "waiting for payment", when my card statement showed payment had been processed.

    Eventually the same fellow discovered my payment somehow & assured me the bolts would be on their way pronto. The first phone call took just over half an hour, the second almost as long.

    The bolts arrived today. They are the correct size and thread, but are too long by between 14 and 16MM! The length between the head & the beginning of the thread (shank length?) is correct, so tomorrow I'll screw a nut on each, then a thread die, cut the length to suit & clean the cut thread first on the bench grinder, then an almost-worn-out belt sander belt, then unscrew the die & nut. Hopefully, all that will keep Murphy out of the picture. I had asked if they were Chinese made, considering the low price. Another person was consulted who said he didn't know, but assured me they endeavoured to provide the best quality, coz they wanted repeat customers. I assume they are.

    Perseverance required!

    JV
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    Re: MF168 head gasket

    Once read about some research that looked into why businesses lost customers....
    The main factor was down to how the customers experience was with whoever they dealt with from the company.
    No matter at what level....but typically over the counter.
    It was some time ago......so I suppose it has moved on from over the counter to over the phone.

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    Re: MF168 head gasket

    Quote Originally Posted by Gee View Post
    Once read about some research that looked into why businesses lost customers....
    The main factor was down to how the customers experience was with whoever they dealt with from the company.
    No matter at what level....but typically over the counter.
    It was some time ago......so I suppose it has moved on from over the counter to over the phone.
    and from over the counter to over the web.
    Personally, I refuse to deal with Amazon because they FORCE me to shop via Amazon.ca (Canada) rather than Amazon.com (US) - for the same item it is often up to half as much in the US as in Canada (i.e. Mopar OE trailer brake controller). I have found other US companies who refuse to ship to Canada so I keep a US shipping / mailing address (costs a couple of dollars a package) - the address is about an hour from home.

    John - I have always found the local Cat dealer to be quite good when trying to get bolts - if they don't have them they normally have them the next day.

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    Re: MF168 head gasket

    Quote Originally Posted by Ironhead View Post
    and from over the counter to over the web.
    Personally, I refuse to deal with Amazon because they FORCE me to shop via Amazon.ca (Canada) rather than Amazon.com (US) - for the same item it is often up to half as much in the US as in Canada (i.e. Mopar OE trailer brake controller). I have found other US companies who refuse to ship to Canada so I keep a US shipping / mailing address (costs a couple of dollars a package) - the address is about an hour from home.

    John - I have always found the local Cat dealer to be quite good when trying to get bolts - if they don't have them they normally have them the next day.
    Ditto for Amazon in Aus!

    Re the Cat dealer, on reflection, I should have bought the bolts there, but at hte time (as I remember) either there was no indication of how long it would take to get them in, or it would take some weeks. The bloke behind the counter was helpful, and we discussed the options; he agreed the cheap Chinese route was the way to go.

    We wus both wrong!

    JV
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    Re: MF168 head gasket

    ARGGHH! B@#$#%y Murphy has taken an unwelcome interest.

    With all the parts and fluids back in place, I hit the starter this morning. Copious amounts of white vapour from the exhaust (which I presume was unburned fuel), and one cylinder apparently low on compression (that's new!), but no hint of any cylinder firing.

    So:

    1. Since the injection pump was not disturbed, I presume timing is ok. The engine was turned backwards a small amount as I figured out which way to turn the pto to turn the engine, but since pump timing is via gears, I can't see this as causing a problem.

    2. Since the injector pipes all have distinctive bends, I can't see any way in which they have been incorrectly installed.

    3. I bled the system, had fuel coming from the injector nut on #2 - and there was the white vapour - so I assume fuel is being delivered to the cylinders at the correct time.

    Which leaves incorrect valve adjustment as a possible problem. Not having a service manual, I went on the www and noted two methods of valve gap adjustment.

    One was the rule of 9, (which I'd never heard of). The diagram showed the 8 valves as bar graphs, with #8 at the front of the engine. I decided to not use that method, coz it looked dodgy!

    The other simply said when the inlet on #4 has just opened, and the exhaust is not completely closed, adjust both valves on #1 - and so on for the other cylinders. That is clear enough, but it became a pain trudging back and forth, turning the engine using the pto, and not being able to see the valves move. In the end, I simply adjusted any valve which seemed to be fully closed, then turning the engine a bit and repeating.

    It seems my caper failed!

    Is the Rule of 9 valid? Is the valve at the front of the engine given the number of 8 so the system can work? Apart from calling in a favour from a neighbour to watch the valve movement, is there an alternative way of knowing which valve(s) to adjust? BTW, a gap of 10 thou. seems to be the norm, so I presume I've correctly adjusted any valve with was in a position of being adjusted.

    Any advice from the Brains Trust will be gratefully received! I need this tractor back in operation.

    JV
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    Re: MF168 head gasket

    Probably this page you've seen John?
    http://www.agriline.co.za/technical/tappets_4cyl.html
    Yes,the rule of 9 is valid. Usually the clearances are set to 12 thou but I did see on a Perkins site to set at 10 irrespective of a warm or cold engine.
    If you tighten the fan belt as much as possible,you should be able to turn the engine with a ratchet and socket on the alternator/dynamo pulley nut. (Might still have to push against the belt as you turn the ratchet.)

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    Re: MF168 head gasket

    Quote Originally Posted by agrimax View Post
    Probably this page you've seen John?
    http://www.agriline.co.za/technical/tappets_4cyl.html
    Yes,the rule of 9 is valid. Usually the clearances are set to 12 thou but I did see on a Perkins site to set at 10 irrespective of a warm or cold engine.
    If you tighten the fan belt as much as possible,you should be able to turn the engine with a ratchet and socket on the alternator/dynamo pulley nut. (Might still have to push against the belt as you turn the ratchet.)
    'Evening agrimax

    Thanks for your reply. Yeah, that was the page I saw; thanks for confirming the rule of 9. I never thought of the trick of using the generator pulley nut to turn the engine but knew the crankshaft nut was out of reach and guessed compression would be too high to use the fan as I've done in the past with other engines, so I'll try it. I agree that the belt might need some additional pressure. Thanks for the tip.

    JV
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    Re: MF168 head gasket

    Ohhhh. Murphy again!

    Got all the valves adjusted with the observational help of my neighbour, and the engine started ok. Used it on light work for a couple of hours stacking hay bales, then it suddenly began to miss on one cylinder and blow bluish black smoke. Not a lot, but enough to see it.

    In more than 50 years of using diesels, I've never had this experience, so I'm at a loss to know where to begin. Is it a dud injector, or likely to be something more serious?

    Brains Trust?

    JV
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    Re: MF168 head gasket

    Think Murphy needs eradicated..! Flipping nuisance having to remove that bonnet and fuel tank again but....
    I'd say it would be worth having the injectors checked out properly but you could slacken the pipes one at a time to see which cylinder it's missing on. Then take them all out and,keeping them in the same order, refit the pipes with the injectors upside down. Crank the engine and see if there is any visual difference in the spray pattern between the one on the missing cylinder and the rest. It'll maybe give you an indication as to whether an injector is at fault. (I'm sure you know to keep hands clear of the atomised fuel..)

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    Re: MF168 head gasket

    Quote Originally Posted by agrimax View Post
    Think Murphy needs eradicated..! Flipping nuisance having to remove that bonnet and fuel tank again but....
    I'd say it would be worth having the injectors checked out properly but you could slacken the pipes one at a time to see which cylinder it's missing on. Then take them all out and,keeping them in the same order, refit the pipes with the injectors upside down. Crank the engine and see if there is any visual difference in the spray pattern between the one on the missing cylinder and the rest. It'll maybe give you an indication as to whether an injector is at fault. (I'm sure you know to keep hands clear of the atomised fuel..)
    agrimax: I'm in 110% agreement on Murphy!

    All good suggestions, thank you, especially the one on testing the injectors out of the head. I have no knowledge of when the injectors were removed last, so I hope none are concreted in!

    JV
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    Re: MF168 head gasket

    Quote Originally Posted by agrimax View Post
    Think Murphy needs eradicated..! Flipping nuisance having to remove that bonnet and fuel tank again but....
    I'd say it would be worth having the injectors checked out properly but you could slacken the pipes one at a time to see which cylinder it's missing on. Then take them all out and,keeping them in the same order, refit the pipes with the injectors upside down. Crank the engine and see if there is any visual difference in the spray pattern between the one on the missing cylinder and the rest. It'll maybe give you an indication as to whether an injector is at fault. (I'm sure you know to keep hands clear of the atomised fuel..)
    Slipped out before breakfast and cracked the nuts on the injectors. Nos. 3 & 4 slowed the engine considerably, #1 not quite so much, and #2 not at all, although fuel is being delivered. I think that points to #2 requiring some attention by the diesel doctor.

    JV
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    Re: MF168 head gasket

    Quote Originally Posted by john maddock View Post
    Slipped out before breakfast and cracked the nuts on the injectors. Nos. 3 & 4 slowed the engine considerably, #1 not quite so much, and #2 not at all, although fuel is being delivered. I think that points to #2 requiring some attention by the diesel doctor.

    JV
    I'd take them all to the man and get him to check them on his test rig, I bet the "good ones" will be below par and if you only do the single one there is a fair chance of that one when fixed being so much better than the rest that it may still not run perfect now because of the poor performers! Worse thing could be that you have 3 "widdlers" - injectors that dribble especially at tickover/low revs which I expect you do with it a lot? If they don't spray properly it can end up squirting the oil off the cylinder bore causing yet more issues further down the line.

    The old way of "servicing" was a bit like you grinding the valves in but in micro form- labour and time intensive, nowadays usually its more cost effective to strip and clean, put a new set of nozzles on and set up.
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    Re: MF168 head gasket

    Quote Originally Posted by Footsfitter View Post
    I'd take them all to the man and get him to check them on his test rig, I bet the "good ones" will be below par and if you only do the single one there is a fair chance of that one when fixed being so much better than the rest that it may still not run perfect now because of the poor performers! Worse thing could be that you have 3 "widdlers" - injectors that dribble especially at tickover/low revs which I expect you do with it a lot? If they don't spray properly it can end up squirting the oil off the cylinder bore causing yet more issues further down the line.

    The old way of "servicing" was a bit like you grinding the valves in but in micro form- labour and time intensive, nowadays usually its more cost effective to strip and clean, put a new set of nozzles on and set up.
    Good advice ff, thank you, and you are correct: I do a lot of low rev. work. I had not thought it through to the same extent, but I can see the sense. She's been a bit smoky for some time, & had wondered if the injectors were responsible.

    My #4 tractor, a 1965 MF135 of unknown hours (coz the hour meter stopped more years ago than I can remember), does similarly, but I've never had an injector failure on that or any other tractor.
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    Re: MF168 head gasket

    Quote Originally Posted by john maddock View Post

    My #4 tractor, a 1965 MF135 of unknown hours (coz the hour meter stopped more years ago than I can remember), does similarly, but I've never had an injector failure on that or any other tractor.
    When your going to use #4 enough to burn a bit of fuel, add approx 10% ATF Dextron transmission oil to the fuel, use it up and then fill with just diesel. The additives designed to control tarnishing in transmission clutches and other issues will similarly clean up injectors especially old school ones like your fleet has.
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    Re: MF168 head gasket

    I'll second that FF. ATF can work wonders.

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    Re: MF168 head gasket

    Quote Originally Posted by Footsfitter View Post
    When your going to use #4 enough to burn a bit of fuel, add approx 10% ATF Dextron transmission oil to the fuel, use it up and then fill with just diesel. The additives designed to control tarnishing in transmission clutches and other issues will similarly clean up injectors especially old school ones like your fleet has.
    Thanks for the tip, ff & agrimax. I'd heard of that in the past, but did not know the reasoning, nor have I tried it. I'll keep it in mind for when I have a proper job for the old girl!

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    Re: MF168 head gasket

    Quote Originally Posted by john maddock View Post
    Slipped out before breakfast and cracked the nuts on the injectors. Nos. 3 & 4 slowed the engine considerably, #1 not quite so much, and #2 not at all, although fuel is being delivered. I think that points to #2 requiring some attention by the diesel doctor.

    JV
    Before visiting the diesel doctor....
    Once took a set in to the Diesel Doctor for similar treatment.....
    Received a good telling off for not numbering the injectors as they were in the head.
    Long time ago now, but has stuck in my mind.
    Cant remember why now but was left with the impression that it was important.
    P.S.
    How old is Murphy?

  28. #28
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    Re: MF168 head gasket

    Quote Originally Posted by Gee View Post
    Before visiting the diesel doctor....
    Once took a set in to the Diesel Doctor for similar treatment.....
    Received a good telling off for not numbering the injectors as they were in the head.
    Long time ago now, but has stuck in my mind.
    Cant remember why now but was left with the impression that it was important.
    P.S.
    How old is Murphy?
    i was lucky then, coz I had tagged each one with it's number and observed performance. The doctor said he would phone when they were ready for collection in a few days, nothing more.

    As for Murphy, probably as old as the universe, coz I regard him as god, being omnipotent and omnipresent!

    JV
    Agtronix - the home of the Weedswiper

  29. #29
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    Re: MF168 head gasket

    So: the jousting with Murphy continues.

    Collected the injectors today, fitted with new nozzles which should have
    been gold plated according to the invoiced parts prices (but I can't see
    the colour). Number 2 was reported as blocked completely, thus new nozzles
    on all was agreed.

    Installed them, and thinking there might be some rubbish in the ends of
    the pipes which had caused the original blockage, turned the engine over
    to pump some diesel from them.

    Then Murphy showed up, to follow on where he'd left off. Every fourth
    revolution, there was a pronounced "choof" from the exhaust manifold pipe.
    Guessing it was a valve problem, I removed the rocker cover to find the
    adjustment of the inlet valve (I think, since I don't have a service
    manual to indicate which are which) on #2 was so loose, the pushrod was
    floating. I spose that one had not been correctly tightened when we
    gapped the valves .

    Re-adjusted it & turned the engine over numerous times, trying to pin down
    which cylinder was crook, and I think it is #2, so it will be head off
    tomorra and away to the Head Doctor.

    I don't think the gasket has failed again, coz that problem was with #3
    cylinder, where moisture had pitted the head between the inlet and exhaust
    valves. If it is a valve, the question to be answered is how bad is it
    leaking?

    JV
    Agtronix - the home of the Weedswiper

  30. #30
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    Re: MF168 head gasket

    Ha! It runs - sweeter than ever! Get away Murphy - and don't come back! (Apologies to any reader named Murphy)

    My forensic analysis, for what it's worth, which is probably a great deal more than the recent no-witnesses-allowed trial in Washington DC, follows.!

    When I bought the tractor 10 years ago I did so coz it had an industrial style loader, there were no oil leaks, everything worked and the price seemed reasonable, despite the tinwork being rubbish and the salesman describing at as possible wrecker.

    Subsequent adventures saw the rebuilding of the MultiPower clutch, both hydraulic pumps (twice, both), electrical system and numerous jousts with the steering.

    And then after some years of trouble free operation, there were some dribbles of water from the exhaust on startup just before Xmas, suggesting a leaking head gasket.

    Removal showed poor workmanship by someone before me: incorrectly torqued bolts and some remains of the previous gasket on both the head and the block. Pitting of the head between the valves of #3 suggests a long period of moisture ingestion, probably at shutdown and the head cooling, sucking vapour in from an adjacent water gallery.

    After replacing the gasket, I used the machine for a couple hours of light work moving bales, until suddenly one cylinder went AWOL.

    The injector doctor confirmed #2 injector blocked, - presumably because of my poor pipe hygiene practices allowing grit in - so the nozzles of all were replaced.

    It was when I thought it a good idea to spin the motor to clear any crap from the injector pipes that there was a robust "choof" from the exhaust on every fourth revolution. Contemplating the situation late last night, I wondered if any of the aforementioned had fallen into a cylinder on extraction of the injectors.

    This morning, on advice from a bloke who should know, I tapped each valve (sans rocker gear) with a hammer to check if there was a stuck valve. None were. I also checked the height of the valve stems with a straight edge, and both valves in #2 and the exhaust in #4 were lower by about 1mm. Not conclusive, but suggestive of something holding the valves cracked open.

    At this time a friend turned up to commiserate, so we gapped all the valves, some of which were rather tight, reason unknown.

    This changed the choof into a lesser wheez, so we decided a fire in the engine might do some good.

    Indeed it did! After the fuel priming was completed, the engine burst into life, the exhaust running cleaner than I'd ever seen it - presumably because of the "gold plating" on the injector nozzles.

    So the Old Girl lives again! Yay!

    JV
    Last edited by john maddock; 06-02-20 at 02:59 PM. Reason: Clarity
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