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Thread: MF 135 - Injection pump.

  1. #1
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    MF 135 - Injection pump.

    Sorry to bring this up again but I've finally got round to doing the job. The following was my original topic that I started back in August :

    This time it's an MF135. 1967 with a bent axle and AD3 -152 engine. I have got diesel coming out from behind the crankshaft pulley and I assume that it is coming out of the front of the injector pump and thereby getting into the timing cover. I assume that there is a seal between the pump and the timing cover that has gone. Do I just undo the bolts as shown below and take the plate off that holds the oil filler on, disconnect all diesel lines, and then undo the bolts on the other side of the pump (not shown and which allow for timing adjustment) and withdraw the pump ?

    If that's correct then presumably I need to line up some timing marks on the timing gears before I remove the pump ?
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    Re: MF 135 - Injection pump.

    Well I finally got round to this job today. Bonnet off and the small plate that carries the engine oil filler in front of the injector pump gear off. The 3 bolts are there as Agrimax kindly mentioned last time but I'm concerned that if I just take those 3 bolts out and undo the pump on the other side of the timing cover and slide it off the dowel then the injector pump gear will drop just a little and then the timing will be out when I put it all back together again. Maybe the injector pump drive gear drops but not enough to disengage with the timing gear that's driving it ?
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    Re: MF 135 - Injection pump.

    Might have mentioned it before,but stuff a piece of rag in between the gear and timing cover just in case a bolt drops out of the socket....
    Remove bolts and remove pump. The gear won't drop enough to upset the timing.
    Just a slot in the end of the pump which is alligned with the dowel pin on the gear on reassembly.

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    Re: MF 135 - Injection pump.

    Quote Originally Posted by agrimax View Post
    Might have mentioned it before,but stuff a piece of rag in between the gear and timing cover just in case a bolt drops out of the socket....
    Remove bolts and remove pump. The gear won't drop enough to upset the timing.
    Just a slot in the end of the pump which is alligned with the dowel pin on the gear on reassembly.
    Thank you for that Agrimax (I was hoping that you would come to my rescue !) Yes, I read the help that you originally gave me and you mentioned putting a bit of rag in there to stop any bolts dropping down deeper into the timing cover. Just out of curiosity do you have any idea of the torque those bolts should be tightened to when re-assembling ?

    Thanks again.

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    Re: MF 135 - Injection pump.

    No mention of torque settings for those bolts in either MF or Perkins manuals. Thinking they are 1/4'' unf (can't remember for sure) and likely around 10-15 ft/lbs. I just nip them up tight and hope not to overdo it!

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    Re: MF 135 - Injection pump.

    Thank you again Agrimax. I'll proceed today with a bit of luck and give an update when available. Is it possible to get a new seal and put it in the pump myself or is it better in your opinion to take the pump to a specialist and have it all checked and calibrated at the same time ? The pump was working fine before, it's only the seal that is giving me any problem with the leak into the timing cover.

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    Re: MF 135 - Injection pump.

    Don't know what's involved in replacing the seal. Haven't been in that end of a DPA pump. Been under the lid and at the regulating valve etc but anything else and it's off to a specialist for me.

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    Re: MF 135 - Injection pump.

    Quote Originally Posted by agrimax View Post
    Don't know what's involved in replacing the seal. Haven't been in that end of a DPA pump. Been under the lid and at the regulating valve etc but anything else and it's off to a specialist for me.
    Okily dokily, I'll get it off and see what it looks like. Thank you.

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    Re: MF 135 - Injection pump.

    Quote Originally Posted by zaza View Post
    Thank you again Agrimax. I'll proceed today with a bit of luck and give an update when available. Is it possible to get a new seal and put it in the pump myself or is it better in your opinion to take the pump to a specialist and have it all checked and calibrated at the same time ? The pump was working fine before, it's only the seal that is giving me any problem with the leak into the timing cover.
    I'm pretty sure that's possible. I did something along those lines with my neighbours MF35 back in the 70s.

    JV
    Agtronix - the home of the Weedswiper

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    Re: MF 135 - Injection pump.

    Here's an old thread zaza. Sounds simple enough.........Maybe save a couple of hundred!
    http://farmingforum.co.uk/forums/sho...esel-into-sump

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    Re: MF 135 - Injection pump.

    Wow, that was helpful Gents. Thank you very much. Confined to office this morning but might be able to get at it this afternoon. Watch this space.

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    Re: MF 135 - Injection pump.

    I managed to have a look at a couple of videos on YouTube : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFWGjrB_Gko and : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h26p78YZIr4 both of which helped when I got back to the job late this afternoon. Of course none of the fastenings have been undone since it went down the track at Banner Lane in 1967 and stupid things like the injector pipe clamps are giving me a bit of grief. We'll get there.

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    Re: MF 135 - Injection pump.

    Quote Originally Posted by zaza View Post
    Wow, that was helpful Gents. Thank you very much. Confined to office this morning but might be able to get at it this afternoon. Watch this space.
    Quote Originally Posted by zaza View Post
    I managed to have a look at a couple of videos on YouTube : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFWGjrB_Gko and : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h26p78YZIr4 both of which helped when I got back to the job late this afternoon. Of course none of the fastenings have been undone since it went down the track at Banner Lane in 1967 and stupid things like the injector pipe clamps are giving me a bit of grief. We'll get there.
    Sitting about in the office, surfing the web and watching YouTube videos, then mucking about in the shed with an old tractor, boy your going to get grief in bucket fulls when Mrs Zaza susses you out!!
    The best thing about Facebook is the logout button......

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    Re: MF 135 - Injection pump.

    Quote Originally Posted by Footsfitter View Post
    Sitting about in the office, surfing the web and watching YouTube videos, then mucking about in the shed with an old tractor, boy your going to get grief in bucket fulls when Mrs Zaza susses you out!!
    Nothing new there then. And anyway, I was working away in my office when suddenly my pc diverted itself to YouTube and enticed me into those videos. I am certain that the pc is psychic and knows exactly what I want to see rather than boring old figures.

    On an entirely different tack, although the Bundy Bears video showed me a lot of things that were helpful, I am concerned about some of his workshop techniques. Using moveable spanners when he's got a shed full of ring and combination spanners. Out in the field then needs must but not in a workshop when there are better alternatives. Surely you agree with that FF ?

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    Re: MF 135 - Injection pump.

    Quote Originally Posted by zaza View Post
    Nothing new there then. And anyway, I was working away in my office when suddenly my pc diverted itself to YouTube and enticed me into those videos. I am certain that the pc is psychic and knows exactly what I want to see rather than boring old figures.
    . . . snipe . . .
    aaaah - you keep getting hit with that computer virus too, do you?

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    Re: MF 135 - Injection pump.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ironhead View Post
    aaaah - you keep getting hit with that computer virus too, do you?
    Oooh, is that what it is ? I never thought of that. It always seems to pop up when I'm bored out of my tree. working with figures or something like that Mind you, this site does it as well. I can be working with boring stuff and suddenly up pops FF with a nugget of inspiration, seemingly from nowhere. Who'da thunkit ?

  17. #17
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    Re: MF 135 - Injection pump.

    New seal in and injection pump timing gear coupling in and about to be fastened with the Allen screw.
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  18. #18
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    Re: MF 135 - Injection pump.

    O.K. All done and dusted now. Have run her up and things seem to be O.K. but time will tell so thanks again folks.

    BUT ! I have a problem. I have a couple of small bolts left over. About 1/4" O.D. and about 1/2" long c/w spring washers. Might be the semblance of red paint on them but nothing that is readily visible because it will be the original paint and not from the respray she had about 20 years ago so they are out of sight somewhere when in position. Almost certainly from the bonnet/grill/other panel work. Could someone give me the link to that site that shows exploded parts diagrams for various tractor makes please ? I've forgotten what it's called. The tractor is a bent axle 135 and just the same now as she was when she came off the track in the first half of 1967.

  19. #19
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    Re: MF 135 - Injection pump.

    Don't know if this illustration will be clear enough? Maybe ok if you zoom in.It's the same as the one in the Agco parts listings but they won't allow copying and pasting or even a screenshot and you'd have to register and log in to view it yourself to see what the numbered parts are.
    I've copied it from another forum...........
    When I remove the bonnet from my 135,I just lift the complete bonnet,grille, side panels and chin piece of in one piece.This way, the only small bolts to come off are 3 at each side of the battery box,2 of which also hold the lower dash panel in place.
    If you seperated the bonnet from the grill,there would be some holding the two parts together.

  20. #20
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    Re: MF 135 - Injection pump.

    That's very helpful Agrimax, thank you. But I was thinking about this last evening while trying to get to sleep (as you do !) and I figured that the two bolts must be definitely something to do with the tinwork. And so it was. When I first attacked the job I thought that the bonnet would be coming off leaving the grille, lights, etc. in situ. And the two bolts fasten the grille to the bonnet, just under the triple triangle badge thingy, that I obviously removed thinking that was the way to do the job. But like you, I discovered that it was so much easier to take the whole lot off, grille, bonnet, etc. etc. all in one go. And again, as you mentioned, just three bolts on each side holding the bonnet to the dash and chin piece to remove and two much larger bolts just loosened at the fron end down at the bottom holding the grille frame to the chassis. A couple of wires taken off the light switch and Bob's your Mother's Brother.

    Thanks again. Very helpful.

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